Actively Black founder Lanny Smith, co-founder Bianca Winslow, and Alfreda Smith.
Courtesy: Texavier Henry
Is the fashion industry ready for another shake up?
When Lanny Smith, founder of Actively Black, closed out his third show at New York Fashion Week, he declared, “This is not a fashion show,” In the heart of Manhattan, Smith and his team didn’t simply put on a fashion show, they elevated the runway into something different – a living tribute to civil rights icons and their living legacies – shifting the conversation about what a Black-owned athleisure brand can be, and where it can sit within the highly competitive global fashion landscape.
According to McKinsey, Black consumers’ spending on apparel and footwear is expected to grow by approximately 6 percent annually to $70 billion by 2030. And this is only part of the total of $445 billion that will be available from 2022 to 2030, including $50 billion in new spending.
Fashion Meets Civil Rights
Smith’s strategy? Blur the line between clothing and culture. Rather than simply spotlighting his collection with influencers, runway models, and celebrities, Actively Black created a stage where history walked hand in hand with style and purpose. From Dr. Bernice A. King and Ilyasah Shabazz, the daughters of the late Rev. Martin Luther King Jr. and Malcolm X, sharing the runway with Black Panther activists Fred Hampton Jr. and Fredricka Newton – the ‘models’ infused with symbolism to their family names and legacies.
The daughters of MLK and Malcom X walk Actively Blacks NYFW show.
Anja Stoll Photography
Bob Marley’s grandchildren and Lisane Basquiat, sister of Jean-Michel Basquiat, appeared, as did Ruby Bridges, the first Black child to attend William Frantz Elementary School in New Orleans in 1960. She was followed by U.S. Olympic legends Tommie Smith and John Carlos, known less for their victories vs being remembered for their raised fists at the 1968 Olympics, and Civil rights photographer Cecil J. Williams donned a hoodie with his own iconic image of drinking from a South Carolina “Whites Only” fountain in 1956.
Capping the historical homage was Ben Haith, who designed the Juneteenth flag —turning NYFW into a stage for national remembrance.
Lauryn Hill, Dapper Dan, Tyrese, and Ghostface Killah, among others, turned out in support, underscoring that Actively Black is not just a fashion brand, but a movement thats using art, activism, and ancestry as fashion.
Beyond Streetwear – Owning the Supply Chain
Beyond the show, Actively Black’s more profound disruption lies in its commitment to shifting ownership in the fashion industry. Smith, who started the company on Black Friday in 2020, has taken his team, which consists of two full time members besides himself, co-founder Bianca Winslow, and his mom Alfreda Smith, and turned his drive into a company that has amassed over $30 million in gross sales before their first five years in the market. A number Smith shares would have been higher if he had more access to capital, as demand has far surpassed supply.
“The first inventory I bought, we thought would last us the first 3 months of the business. That inventory sold out in the first 3 weeks, and we have been trying to catch up ever since.” Lanny shared. Actively Black generated $2.1 million in their first 12 months and began to double revenues 100% each year. Even with that growth, they have not been able to maintain a stock level for longer than six months.
The company is now actively looking for investors to help them catch up to demand.
Models pose in the Actively Black Swimwear Collection
Courtesy: Actively Black
“Nearly every person I spoke to about the idea of Actively Black told me it would not work. Both white and Black people said that including ‘Black’ in the brand name would prevent it from being successful. Knowing that 98% of start-up apparel brands fail within the first 3 years and that we are doing this independently without compromising the message and mission is humbling. I launched this out of my apartment. It is a testament to the need for a brand like Actively Black and the incredible support from our Tribe.” Lanny said
Not coming from a fashion or a business background, Smith was a basketball prodigy with dreams of playing in the NBA. In 2009, he signed with the Sacramento Kings, but just 33 days later, he suffered a career-ending knee injury.
“I have been blessed with a new dream to build a Black owned brand in an industry that has profited billions of dollars from Black talent, Black culture and Black consumerism, but hasn’t adequately given back to the Black community.”
Actively Black uses a supply chain of cotton grown by Black farmers.
Courtesy: Actively Black
Lanny has been outspoken about sourcing Black-owned cotton and building equitable supply chains. Earlier this year he partnered with Bridgeforth Farms to ensure that the cotton used in the fabrics is “Black owned from the dirt to the shirt, from the seed to the stitch.”
In an industry often critiqued for its exploitative practices, Actively Black is positioning itself not just as a brand with bold aesthetics but as a player rewriting the economics of fashion.
“Me being pro-Black doesn’t mean I’m anti-anybody else, its about honoring our ancestors, uplifting our communities, and reminding the world that our stories, our innovation, and our style are indispensable to the global culture.”
The Wakanda Forever X Actively Black Collection
Courtesy: Actively Black
That philosophy is why Actively Black’s presence is resonating far beyond the runway. “We have been able to secure licenses from Muhammad Ali, Star Wars, Black Panther, and HBCUs by leveraging both cultural capital and supply-chain strategy to assert independence in an industry historically closed to Black ownership at scale.” Smith added.
Actively Black aims to capture, what fashion has long promised but rarely delivered: the merging of beauty, business, and social justice.
For an industry grappling with questions of diversity and accountability, Actively Black’s story is a powerful reminder: one person with a strong vision can change an industry. And the future of fashion may be less about seasonal trends and more about which brands dare to stand for something.
Source: https://www.forbes.com/sites/dougmelville/2025/10/02/from-black-owned-cotton-to-30-million-in-sales-actively-black-is-shaking-up-fashionand-ownership/
